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ঘুরে আসুন পাথরে ঘেরা বিছানাকান্দি থেকে

গতবছর ফেব্রুয়ারির মাঝামাঝি সময়ের দিকে আমার অভিজ্ঞতা হয়েছিল সিলেটের বিছানাকান্দিতে ভ্রমণ করার। স্থানীয়ভাবে যা ‘বিস্নাকান্দি’ নামে পরিচিত। ঝর্ণার পানির উপর অসংখ্য পাথর একটার উপর আরেকটা ছেঁয়ে আছে দেখেই এই জায়গাটির এমন নামকরণ। ভারতের খাসিয়া পর্বতের বিভিন্ন স্তর এখানে এসে মিলিত হয়েছে, যার ফলে জায়গাটি পাথর তোলার জন্য বিখ্যাত। এ পর্বত থেকে নেমে আসা ঝর্ণা একটি হ্রদ সৃষ্টি করেছে যা ‘পিয়াইন’ নামের নদীর সাথে সংযুক্ত। খাসিয়া পাহাড়ের ঢাল বেয়েই বিছানাকান্দিতে শিলাগুলো গড়িয়ে আসে।

সিলেটে যাওয়ার উদ্দেশ্যে ঢাকা থেকে সিলেটগামী ট্রেনে করে ৭ ঘন্টা পর সিলেট শহরে পৌঁছাই। সেখানকার সার্কিট হাউজে আমাদের জিনিসপত্র রেখে হাতমুখ ধুয়ে আমরা ‘পানসী’তে প্রাতরাশটা সেরে ফেলি। এরপর সবাই মিলে ঠিক করলাম প্রথমেই যাব বিছানাকান্দিতে। সাথে সাথে মাইক্রোবাস ভাড়া করে সিলেট শহর থেকে ২৫ কি.মি. উত্তরে বিছানাকান্দির উদ্দেশ্যে রওনা দিলাম আমরা মোট দুটি পরিবার। সিলেট শহরের ইট-পাথরের তৈরী দালানকোঠার ফাঁকে ফাঁকে সবুজ পাহাড়গুলো কখনো একটু, কখনো বা মুখটা বাড়িয়ে উঁকি দিতে লাগল।

এরকম নির্মল হাওয়া উপভোগ করতে ভালোই লাগছিল, কিন্তু কিছুদূর যেতেই বাঁধে বিপত্তি। ভাঙা রাস্তায় গাড়ি এঁকেবেঁকে চলা শুরু করলো। কোমর ব্যথা হয়ে গেলেও ব্যথার পরিমাণ তখন অনুভব করা যায়নি। কেননা গাড়ির বাইরে দিয়ে দেখা যাচ্ছিল দিগন্ত বিস্তৃত মাঠ যা কিনা আকাশচুম্বী নীল পাহাড়ের সাথে মিশে গেছে। কোথায় মনে একটু কবিতা আসছিল, বেরসিক ড্রাইভার সেই ভাবনায় গুড়েবালি দিয়ে জোরে ব্রেক কষলেন! বললেন আমাদেরকে এখানেই নামতে হবে। বাকি ৪ কি.মি. পথ হয় হেঁটে নাহয় মোটরচালিত নৌকায় করে যেতে হবে।

প্রত্যেক পরিবারেই দুটি করে শিশু,তাই হেঁটে যাওয়ার চিন্তা বাদ দেওয়া হলো। গাড়ি যে জায়গায় থেমেছিল, সে জায়গার নাম ছিল হাদারপাঁড়, যা গোয়াইনঘাট উপজেলার অন্তর্ভুক্ত। তো সেখানকার স্থানীয় এক দোকান থেকে পেটপুজো আর প্রাকৃতিক কাজ সেরে মোটরচালিত নৌকায় করে বিছানাকান্দির উদ্দেশ্যে রওনা দিলাম। নৌকায় করে যাওয়ার পথটা ছিল বেশ রোমাঞ্চকর। নৌকা ধীরে ধীরে সামনে এগোতে থাকে আর আমরাও সেই তালে আস্তে আস্তে দুলতে থাকি। আগে পানি অনেক স্বচ্ছ ছিল, কিন্তু এখন আশেপাশে পাথর কাটার আর তোলার কাজ হয় দেখো পুরো পানি কাদায় ভরে গেছে। যার ফলে নৌকার চলাচলে অসুবিধা হয়, অনেক সময় পানিতে আটকেও যায়। মিনিট ত্রিশেক পর আবিষ্কার করলাম পানি ধীরে ধীরে পরিষ্কার হচ্ছে। সামনে তাকাতেই দেখি এক মনভুলানো অভূতপূর্ব দৃশ্য। মন উদাস করে দেওয়ার মতন এক জায়গায় আমাকে তার কাছে ডাকছে, সে এক অদ্ভুত হাতছানি!

সেখানে পাথরগুলো এমনভাবে ছড়িয়ে ছিটিয়ে আছে, যা দেখে মনে হচ্ছে কেউ যেন নীল বিছানার উপর পাথর ঢেলে দিয়েছে। এই দৃশ্য দেখলেই জায়গাটির নামের সার্থকতা টের পাওয়া যায়। এ যেন নদী, পাথর, মেঘ আর আকাশের অপরূপ মিলনস্থল। দূর থেকে দেখা যায় মেঘালয়ের পাহাড়গুলো। আকাশে টুকরো টুকরো মেঘ এখানে-ওখানে পুঞ্জিভূত হয়ে আছে। ঝুলন্ত সেতুটা পার হলেই মেঘালয়, আর তার পরেই রবীন্দ্রনাথের সেই শিলং। এইসব দেখে যাত্রাপথের ঝাঁকুনি নিমেষেই ভুলে গেলাম। আশেপাশের সবাই তাড়াতাড়ি পানিতে নেমে জলকেলি শুরু করে দিলো।

টুরিস্টের মৌসুম বলে ভিড় থাকলেও কোনো বিশৃঙখলার সৃষ্টি হয়নি। কেননা এমন জায়গায় কেই বা ঝামেলা করবে? সময়টা শীতকাল দেখেই পানির পরিমাণ ছিল অনেক কম। তবুও হাড়কাঁপানো পানিতে পা ভেজালেই নিচে ছোট ছোট পাথর খন্ড উঁকি দেয়। হিমশীতল পানি শরীরে এক অন্যরকম কাঁপুনি সৃষ্টি করছিল।

সতেজ হাল্কা ঠাণ্ডা বাতাস আর পায়ের তলায় একটু সুড়সুড়ি দেওয়ার মতন পানি খুব ভালমতোই উপভোগ করছিলাম, কিন্তু আবার মোটরচালক এসে সেই উপভোগে উনার গরম হাঁক ঢুকিয়ে দিয়ে বললেন সূর্য ডুবে যাবে, এখনই এখান থেকে বেরোতে হবে। কী আর করার, বিদায় দিতে মন সায় না দিলেও বিদায় দিয়ে আসতে হলো। আবার সেই মোটর নৌকায় উঠে পড়লাম, নৌকা চলতে শুরু করলো দুলকি চালে। আর পেছনে রেখে আসলাম উদাসীন ও নির্বিকার অপরূপ বিছানাকান্দি।

যেভাবে যাবেন:
ঢাকা থেকে সিলেটগামী বাসে বা ট্রেনে করে সিলেট শহরে নামতে হবে। সেখান থেকে হাজার দেড়েক টাকা দিয়ে মাইক্রোবাস বা সিএনজি ঠিক করে গোয়াইনঘাট পর্যন্ত যেতে হবে। এরপর ১২০০-১৫০০ (কখনো কখনো ৮০০ তেও নেমে আসে) টাকা দিয়ে যাওয়া-আসা মোটরবোট ঠিক করে ৩৫ মিনিটের মধ্যে বিছানাকান্দিতে চলে যাওয়া যাবে। হেঁটেও যাওয়া যাবে,তবে ৪ কি.মি. পথ হেঁটে না যাওয়াই ভাল।

সতর্কতা:
১. বিছানাকান্দি ভারত-বাংলাদেশের জিরো পয়েন্টে অবস্থিত। তাই ভারতের বর্ডারের কাছে লাল পতাকা দিয়ে ঘেরা জায়গার কাছে বা জায়গটা টপকানোর দুঃসাহস না দেখানোই বুদ্ধিমানের কাজ।

২. বিছানাকান্দিতে খাওয়ার বা প্রাকৃতিক কাজ সারার ব্যবস্থা নেই। এসব কাজ হাদারপাঁড় বাজার থেকে করে নেওয়াই ভাল।

৩. মোটরবোট চালকদের সাথে যত পারবেন দামাদামি করে নেবেন, এরা অতিরিক্ত টাকা আদায় করতে পটু।

৪. পাথর পিচ্ছিল থাকতে পারে, তাই সাবধানে চলাচল করতে হবে।

৫. নেশাজাতীয় দ্রব্য কেউ অফার করলে এড়িয়ে যাবেন। নতুবা পুলিশি ঝামেলায় ফাঁসতে পারেন।

৬. থাকার কোনো ব্যবস্থা নেই। সুতরাং সেই সময় হাতে নিয়েই একদিনের মধ্যে বেড়িয়ে আসবেন।

৭. স্রোতের মধ্যে যাওয়ার সময় আংটি, ঘড়ি, অলংকার সব খুলে রাখবেন।

৮. বর্ষাকাল বিছানাকান্দি ভ্রমণের উপযুক্ত সময়। তবে অনাকাঙ্ক্ষিত ঝড়-বৃষ্টি যাতে বাঁধার সৃষ্টি না করেন তাই আবহাওয়ার পূর্বাভাস অবশ্যই দেখে যাবেন।

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